Joe's Cross Canada 2004 Bicycle Tour

Overview

On May 31, 2004, Joe departed from Mile 0 in Victoria BC on a solo bicycle tour across Canada. His destination was the opposite coast at the Mile 0 landmark in St. John's NF. Along the way, he set a goal of visiting the legislature buildings in every provincial capital, as well as Canada's national Parliament in Ottawa.

Completed on August 17, 2004, the journey covered more than 7,800 km over 67 riding days, averaging approximately 116.6 km per day at 22.8 km/h.

Joe's Grandad completed a similar journey in 1983, inspiring this trip more than two decades later.

Each campsite marker on the map is clickable — tap any one to see the detailed stats for that day's ride.

Departure: Vancouver Island and Mainland BC

The trip began at Mile 0 in Victoria before heading north to the ferry and across to the Lower Mainland. After months of planning, it was an exciting relief to finally be on the road and moving north-east toward the interior of British Columbia.

Departing Mile 0 in Victoria, BC.

The first few nights were spent with family and friends, easing into life on tour before the long days ahead. This was especially important given that my longest training ride up to that point had only been around 20 km. On the second day, early knee pain set in and briefly raised concerns, but it subsided quickly and didn’t return as the journey continued.

Soon after, the route began to climb into the mountains, where the first solo nights of camping marked the true beginning of the journey.

Hope, BC.

Mountain Crossing: Interior BC to the Rockies

Long climbing days and major elevation changes define this section heading east through the mountain corridors of interior British Columbia. The route gradually transitions from rolling valleys into sustained ascents, where each day demanded steady pacing and careful energy management. The landscape becomes more remote and rugged, with long stretches between towns requiring more careful planning for resupply.

Camping near Merritt, BC.

With each mountain pass completed, confidence steadily grew that no challenge ahead would be insurmountable. As the journey progressed toward the Rocky Mountains, the effort of each climb was matched by the reward of expansive views and quiet wilderness, marking a clear shift from the early coastal stages into the true mountain crossing.

Mount Robson, BC.

Prairies: Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba

After descending out of the mountains, the route opens into the vast prairie provinces of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba, where long days in the saddle and high daily mileage quickly became the standard. The scale of the landscape shifts noticeably here. Wide horizons, long straight roads, and a sense of distance that grows with every hour of riding.

Legislative Assembly of Alberta across the river valley in Edmonton, AB.

Although often thought of as flat, the prairies were more rolling than expected, with subtle but constant climbs that added up over the course of a day. Wind quickly became the defining challenge of this section, capable of either carrying progress forward or grinding it almost to a halt. This made each day a constant negotiation with the conditions rather than just the distance.

Flat farmland in Saskatchewan.

Northern Ontario

Ontario’s sheer size became one of the biggest surprises of the journey, as the province seemed to go on endlessly day after day. Equally unexpected was the number of lakes and steep hills, with constant climbs and descents replacing any expectation of an easier ride. Combined with changing weather and long distances between towns, this section proved to be one of the most challenging and memorable parts of the trip.

Looking back at a steep hill climb along northern Lake Superior.

Wildlife encounters became part of the daily rhythm through Northern Ontario. Foxes often appeared around campsites, while moose were regularly sighted along the roadside. One memorable moment involved being briefly chased by a small bear that was being negligently fed by people in a stopped car. Experiences like these added another layer of unpredictability to an already demanding stretch of the journey.

Campsite on Lake Superior.

Southern Ontario

Southern Ontario marked an important change of pace after the long push across the country. Until reaching Orangeville, there had been no rest days at all since departing Victoria. Staying with family friends provided a much-needed opportunity to recover, reset, and enjoy time off the bike.

Ontario Legislative Building, Toronto, ON.

During the stop, my dad and brother flew out to meet me, and together we took time to visit Niagara Falls and see more of southern Ontario. After more than a week of rest, I returned to the saddle to revisit Toronto before continuing on toward Ottawa.

The Centre Block on Parliament Hill, Ottawa, ON.

Quebec

Entering Quebec brought another noticeable change in culture and landscape as the journey continued east. Although I did not speak French, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily I was able to communicate in English throughout the province, making the transition far smoother than expected.

Historic gates in the fortification walls of Old Quebec City.

Quebec was also greener than I had imagined, with lush countryside and vibrant scenery lining much of the route. Combined with some of the best weather of the entire trip, this section felt welcoming, comfortable, and like a refreshing final push toward the Atlantic coast.

Plains of Abraham looking toward downtown Quebec City.

Atlantic Canada

Through both New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, I was surprised by how many steep hills the route contained, with constant climbing and descending that made the terrain far more demanding than expected.

Longest covered bridge in the world in Hartland, NB.

Despite the challenges, some of the strongest riding of the trip came in this section. My longest single-day distance was set at 190.86 km, finishing at the Confederation Bridge, where a shuttle was required to make the crossing.

Confederation Bridge, looking out towards PEI.

Finish: Newfoundland

The final stretch into Newfoundland brought a sense of closure as the journey moved into its last chapter. By this point, I had met several other cross-country cyclists along the way, and by chance a few of them who I had crossed paths with at different times during the trip ended up on the same ferry crossing.

Arriving in Newfoundland in the dark after a ferry ride that took about 15 hours.

We arrived in Newfoundland after dark, disembarking into a quiet, unfamiliar coastline with the end now within reach. The following day marked the final ride, a shorter but deeply meaningful push across the island to St. John's, completing the journey from coast to coast.

The finish at Mile 0 in St. John's, NL.